Reflection: Contextualizing the Silence of Women in Kashmir

/ By Sohini Jana /

Disclaimer: This is a personal reflection article and does not claim to be based on targeted primary data collection on the topic. My reflections stem from the conversations and stories shared by women from Kashmir during my travels across the region.

While deriving from the stories, I only seek to provide a broader framework for my argument and will not be revealing the identity or details of the stories that have been shared with me through bonds of trust.

I am blessed to have this opportunity to provide a safe space to my sisters and mothers in Kashmir and wish to ensure that I don’t misrepresent or misinterpret their voices in any way.

I seek to offend none and only write to advocate for evolving more safe spaces to build the context for a gender empowerment narrative in the region that is supported by the notion of cultural agency, suited to the spirit of “Kashmiriyat” as the women themselves see it through their own stories.

Having said that, this article forms the basis of my primary assessment as a peace-builder for more intended research efforts on the topic in the future.

I wish to clearly mention at the very outset that I write this article as an outsider, a Bengali woman hailing from a matriarchal cultural setting, seeking to understand the context for designing gender empowerment focused policy inputs in Jammu and Kashmir.

I am still learning and would love to receive feedback and alternative perspectives on the topic.

Introduction

Stories have always been my most preferred form or mode of getting to know and understand a new culture. As a Bengali woman working to support research on a number of development goals in Jammu and Kashmir, I always knew that local stories and experiences of the people would be invaluable for me to build my sense of cultural sensitivity to help me contextualize my work with the intention to better suit the needs of the people on the ground.

It is in this context that I write to present a preliminary observation pertaining to an important focus area for my work. I write today to outline my assessment of the lack of and consequent need for safe spaces to bring to life a narrative based on women’s stories and experiences to build the foundation for gender empowerment initiatives in Jammu and Kashmir.

Generous Warmth, Pain and Silence, the Womb for the birth of Power

It was during my visits to many a home while on my field trip across Kashmir( I have only travelled to a limited extent and have much more to see) that I first realized how the world-renowned hospitality of Jammu and Kashmir is a tradition held in place by women within the community.

They are the ones who invite you in and give you a sense of home. They are the ones who ensure that the essence of their culture seeps into your veins through the cheerful conversations at the hearth over steaming mugs of salty tea and bread, the ones who make that effort to go that extra mile to help you acclimatize and also offer you with a bountiful heart, their home, to help you settle down.

I have lost count of how many homes have opened up their doors to invite me to stay as a daughter.

This is the tradition, the best representation of treating the guest as no less than a blessed encounter. As I chatted with many a woman in many of the homes of my team members, their relatives and also people I met on the way, it struck me as truly interesting how Kashmiris welcomed people from all over the world to experience home in their land as if they were their kin but at the same time struggled to trust that they had a safe space as a reciprocal gesture from the world out there that seems to have forgotten them.

How much pain and a feeling of being forsaken could have pushed the Kashmiri people to love and embrace the world without any reciprocal expectation in return.

“Outsiders are all the same didi. They first give you hope and then disown you.” These were the words of a young girl who never failed to tell me how much she loved spending time with me.

There seemed to be a trauma of betrayal, a general sense of deep hurt.

This made me wonder if as an outsider, I had something to offer besides my research-related skills. Maybe I could offer a strategy to provide a safe space for stories untold and voices unheard of for years. Maybe I could be an ear for the voices of women to find their power as important stakeholders in defining their culture that they already do, albeit silently.

This young girl eventually shared with me her story and experiences and how she rose out of feelings of abandonment, exploitation and the craving for a safe space to be herself. As it stands, she wishes to be a religious educator one day in a school.

In Kashmir, as per my observations, there seems to be an evolved culture of more or less clear segregation of gender roles that is designed to suit the circumstances.

The conflict has torn and highly militarized as a region as Kashmir already is, besides the history of the population struggling repeatedly due to instances of broken promises, political fall-outs and externally triggered disruptions through an ever-evolving and dynamic trend in militancy, the region naturally stands as one of the least-favourable places to even rationally consider finding a crucible of psycho-emotional safe space for heart-felt sharing and outpouring of pain, especially for women.

 The men are vigilant of their households( naturally so) and in the spirit of keeping their families safe, the women consciously seem to choose to facilitate the arrangement by maintaining a careful silence that is palpable but barely made visible.

As a facilitator trained to read silence while listening to various stakeholders, I decided to make a conscious effort to listen and connect deeper.

In some cases, stories eventually came out in cathartic outpourings and many a woman took to me as someone who they could instinctively trust to empathize with their silenced stories to some extent. It was on one of my visits to the home of a lady Police Officer that she shared her story of choosing to be a part of the State Security Structure back in the early 90s, during the heyday of the insurgency.

I suddenly found myself looking at empowerment as a response to circumstances, a conscious choice that this lady had made as an 18-year-old, 30 years back, to not let uncensored violence rip apart her life or her future like it had for many others. Her two daughters today aspire to be a business lawyer and an administrator though motivated to do so from afar sheltered reality as it stands now.

When this officer narrated to me her story, I witnessed her re-living the moments that shaped her choice and decision. I was taken back to the times when foreign militants from across the border would barge into homes, harass young women and stay in the homes of different people without any consideration of how the families perceived their invasive tendencies.

Sometimes young women from these households would be coerced to marry the militants and then inevitably they would be left at some point with fatherless children as the militants would be neutralized at the hands of the state or some would even flee without any notice.

During those days when joining the Police Force wasn’t exactly an applauded option for any young woman, this lady made the choice, supported by her family and is still serving the Police Force for over 25 years. Given this lady’s decision to join the Police Force came during the most unlikely times, despite the passage of thirty years and the militancy situation being somewhat in better control than yesteryears, you wouldn’t find many Kashmiri women coming forward to make the same choice today.

Maybe there could have been a different outcome? Maybe there could have been more women making such choices in the face of dire uncertainties and struggling it out had they been aware of such an existing story? We would never know.  

Interestingly, it was this lady’s two daughters who encouraged her to share, hinting to me time and again that their mother had a story that was silenced. Clearly, they derived inspiration and strength from the story and wanted me to experience the same.

 On probing why she wouldn’t share her story generally, I was told that it wasn’t safe to confide in people with stories of deep personal meaning and trauma. There was a sense of fear of ridicule and judgment that weighed down on the imposed silence.

To me, this particular case and story opened up the possibility of an existing empowerment narrative that is already present in the valley but silenced and not studied as a factor of post-traumatic growth for women. This lady had seen much harassment, much threat and despite all odds had remained firm on her choice.

Maybe there were more like her, leading the way, championing the cause of standing one’s ground and being decision-makers in their own stride.

As a policy researcher, I was stunned at the potency of such stories of courage and inspiration but my conflict analysis background told me that these stories needed the optimal environment to be brought to life as lived possibilities.

The silence for once appeared to me as a gestation period for the birth of power should the environment be fertile and conducive for the birthing process.

Over the period of a month as I listened deeper, I connected with women who are silently leading not only as matriarchs in households but also participating in elected posts at the behest of their menfolk to support change and the search for power by the community to be decision-makers and masters of their own fate.

Even in public posts, women taking up reserved seats are mostly seen to be supportive and silent in terms of addressing their own priorities and are mostly guided by their menfolk in deciding on community priorities in their official capacities.

 As I travelled,I listened further to stories of women who have lost their dear ones to the militancy, witnessed torture of their family members, suffered lasting injuries as a result of the militancy and yet fought on to emerge wiser, stronger, shaping generations and thus the community and culture.

Curious eyes, giggles and hushed murmurs followed my footsteps everywhere as I met women from the cities, towns and villages. 

I felt the silence everywhere but could earn only limited trust and opportunity to open up the safe space for story sharing. As the lady officer’s story inspired her daughters to look at the cultural agency of women in their context in an enabling light, maybe allowing such stories to be shared could inspire future generations of women to rethink possibilities for becoming a part of an existing empowerment narrative rather than a borrowed one that is usually peddled in mainstream discourses.

Maybe such stories can encourage women to decide for themselves that their roles are not defined by or limited to the conflict-driven idea of “safety” or “acceptability” and that local women have already laid the first steps to re-imagining empowering possibilities.

Measuring Possibilities in Story-sharing: Recommended Actions

Compassionate dialogue circles with the aid of trained facilitators and supportive psychologists could go a long way to bring out this narrative that is otherwise suppressed and soon endangered to be lost beyond recovery.

These narratives can in turn support the cause of women making a conscious choice to welcome gestures by advocates of gender equality to create a space for empowering opportunities. Opportunities are after all only useful when the target group finds it feasible and are encouraged to use such opportunities to their benefit as a mark of conscious choice.

Women need stories to thus frame a narrative that supports their sense of cultural agency to negotiate against the seeming trend.

In terms of the trend to silently support, there could evolve a way to create a culture of psycho-emotional safety and protection of privacy while developing the narrative from real-life stories.

Anonymity and confidentiality in story sharing circles and research documentation could be one way of ushering in trust to support the process.

Conclusion

In Kashmir, the silence of women appears to be a choice that is steeped in culturally adaptive motive, a trauma driven response and an attempt to foster the remains of a culture that is still seeking to stay rooted in the spirit of coexistence and community.

As one young woman and my peer mentioned; in her opinion, women here can never make it far while living in the region and they can barely do much.

I found myself instinctively responding to her exasperation with the following words, “It is the contrary actually. Hadn’t it been for the silent choice to be the sponge and the weaving net of the cultural fabric that you women have provided for generations, there would be no Kashmir. Maybe it is time to write that story together.”

Source: The article was first published by JK Policy Institute.

Would you like a cup of tea in an igloo?

Tourists are flocking to the one of its kind Igloo Cafe in Indian-administered Kashmir, giving a ray of hope for the revival of tourism in the conflict-hit disputed region.

The new attraction inside an igloo in Gulmarg, a popular skiing destination in the region, serves hot food and tea on tables made of snow.

Syed Waseem Shah, a hotelier, took inspiration for the cafe located outside his Kolahoi Green Heights hotel from Iglu-Dorf, an igloo village with hotels and restaurants in Zermatt, Switzerland.

“It is in the Guinness Book of World Records. The igloo there was 42 feet wide, and it really amazed me. I wanted to build a similar one here, and this winter I finally did it,” he told Anadolu Agency.

The igloo measures 22 feet in diameter (7 meters), is 12.5 feet (3.81 meters) high and holds four tables with enough room for up to 16 guests at a time.

Shah explained that the cafe took around 15 days and 20 workers to build, and sees about 500 visitors each day. “We started on Jan. 25, and are hopeful to continue till March 5, if weather conditions remain cold,” he said.

Slump in tourism

Besides the ongoing conflict, the coronavirus pandemic has had a devastating impact on Kashmir’s once-booming tourism sector.

Since Aug. 5, 2019, when India scrapped its limited autonomy, the footfall of tourists in the region dropped by nearly 80%, the lowest in 10 years, according to a report by the Kashmir Chamber of Commerce and Industries. It resulted in a loss of $5.3 billion, and cut jobs of nearly 500,000 people.

High-speed internet also remains blocked, creating difficulties for people from all professions from doctors to students and small businessmen.

Sheikh Ashiq Hussain, the chamber’s president, told Anadolu Agency that he is hopeful for a better season this year, however. “But the main issue for tourists is poor internet connectivity,” he lamented. “We have raised it with the government but to no avail. They say there are ‘security concerns,’ but how will we revive the tourism sector if security issues persist?

The success of the unique establishment calls for government support to attract more tourists.

“Official initiatives such as organizing snow festivals and traditional exhibitions should be taken but unfortunately nothing of that sort is happening,” he said. “People will not only come here to see snowfall and greenery, but to know our culture, traditions, and enjoy the food as well.”

Kashmir is held by India and Pakistan in parts but claimed by both in full. Since they were partitioned in 1947, the two countries have fought three wars, two of them over Kashmir.

Some Kashmiri groups have also been fighting against Indian rule for independence, or unification with neighboring Pakistan.

Source: Albawaba

KH Khurshid: The light of the nation

Muhammad Faisal//

On 10th March 1988, a passenger bus on the way to Mirpur in Azad Kashmir suffered an accident resulting in deaths of most of its passengers. The roads in Azad Kashmir have always resulted in many accidents and caused many deaths even until now. Among the deceased was a man from Srinagar who incidentally was the President of Azad Kashmir.

With less than fifty rupees in his pockets and no house of his own, he died like his hero in selflessness and obscurity. 

Khurshid Hasan Khurshid was born in the locality of Abi Guzar, Srinagar in 1924 to a middle class family. His father Maulvi Mohammad Hasan was a head master posted in Gilgit.

KH Khurshid as he’s famously known became interested in the political activities in Srinagar during his teenage years. Post 1931 uprising, many educated Kashmiris had started a rights movement in the tyrannical Dogra rule. KH Khurshid following the tradition of many educated Kashmiris started a students movement called Muslim Students’ Federation which supported the Muslim League’s idea of Pakistan.

In 1942, KH Khurshid went to Jalandar where Muhammad Ali Jinnah was presiding over an annual conference of Punjab Muslim Students’ Federation. He was asked by Dr. Mohammad Din Taseer (father of Salmaan Taseer) the principal of Amar Singh College in Srinagar to also take part in a contest in Lahore.

It was here where Khurshid was bowled over by the enigma of Muhammad Ali Jinnah. Although he didn’t have a proper meeting with his future boss, Jinnah had made a great impression on this teenager who firmly believed in the cause of Pakistan.

In 1944, Muhammad Ali made his final and what would be a historic trip to the state of Jammu and Kashmir. During this time Khurshid had joined Orient Press as well, a Muslim news agency in British India.

During his first meeting Khurshid was to deliver a message on behalf of the Muslim Conference. After a short conversation Jinnah grew fond of him and Khurshid frequented his houseboat ‘the Queen Elizabeth’.  On June 26th Jinnah offered Khurshid the job of his private secretary which the latter readily accepted on 4 July 1944.

Therefrom began the twenty year old’s journey with the founder of Pakistan who later famously remarked, “I’ll tell you who made Pakistan; myself, my secretary and his typewriter.”

In 1947-8 during the first Kashmir war, Jinnah was shocked at the tribal raids in Kashmir which he was not informed about. Despite the Azad Kashmiri forces leading the battle from Bagh and Poonch. Jinnah sent Khurshid to Srinagar to try to handle the crisis. But Sheikh Abdullah’s administration jailed him until his hero Jinnah passed away in obscurity.

After Khurshid was exiled by Sheikh Abdullah’s government to Azad Kashmir. Despite his status as Jinnah’s man who had told him when he took him from Srinagar, “I will take care of you.” He was sidelined into shadows by the governments of Pakistan despite his appointment as Private Secretary being the first acts of Jinnah after the creation of Pakistan.

Fatima Jinnah persuaded Khurshid to continue his education at Lincoln’s Inn to become a lawyer. Short of funds, Fatima Jinnah sent him to England and financed his education. After his return he practiced law in Karachi in 1954 where he stayed in the flagstaff house with Fatima Jinnah.

In 1959, General Ayub Khan asked Khurshid to become the President of Azad Kashmir. He constantly fought with the Ministry of Kashmir Affairs which until then had treated the Azad Kashmiris as puppets, and the unfortunate land which Khalid Hasan describes, “an unfortunate land which is neither Pakistan nor Kashmir.”

Later accused by the intelligence bureau and military intelligence of working for a ‘independent Kashmir’ despite his credentials of fighting for Pakistan. He resigned from the Presidency by 15 August 1964. One of the great legacies of him was the passage of land reforms bill in Azad Kashmir which ended the scourge of feudalism.

In 1965, when the disastrous campaign of Operation Gibraltar was to be launched, Khurshid was the only man in Pakistan who lobbied hard to have it called it off. It would have disastrous consequences on the Kashmir dispute and Pakistan’s case.

Instead of listening to his view. He was picked up from the house of respected statesman Mirwaiz Maulvi Yusuf. He was dragged in a car like an ordinary criminal and imprisoned by Pakistani authorities in the notorious Dalai Camp where later his campaign manager and founder of the Kashmir revolution Maqbool Butt was jailed as well.

This is believed to have been a result of reports that he alongwith Sheikh Abdullah were conspiring on an Indira Gandhi’s plan. This has been rubbished by Khurshid and many other authors who say that Khurshid would have been the last Kashmiri to collaborate with a man like Sheikh Abdullah.

After a year in prison, he was freed without a reason like the way he was detained in the first place. He formed his own party the Jammu Kashmir Liberation League. His activities were put under surveillance by Pakistani government and Azad Kashmir administration. For twenty-two years, there was no mention of him on Pakistan Television. The day he passed away, PTV had no picture in their library of Khurshid Hasan Khurshid to put in their bulletin.

In 1971, during the Ganga Hijacking, Khurshid met the two young hijackers Ashraf and Hashim Qureshi at the Lahore airport. His statement in the court exonerated the Qureshi brothers from the alleged burning of the old fokker plane along with Maqbool Butt.

During Zia-ul Haq’s regime, the dictator came out with a revelation that a diary of Jinnah was found where he rejected parliamentary democracy, to justify his dictatorship. Khurshid was asked for a comment, he vehemently denied any existence of such a diary. Zia ul Haq never mentioned the diary again.

He also attended the Non Aligned conference in Harare Zimbabwe, much to the dismay of Rajiv Gandhi and surprise of General Zia ul Haq who asked him, “If you were coming we would have made arrangements made.” To which Khurshid has said, “If i told you, I wouldn’t have been here.”

In one his speeches at Arlington in UK, he mentioned that dictatorship had greatly damaged the Pakistan and its vision. He was a known critic of Zia ul Haq’s regime.

On Jinnah, Khurshid records in his diary, “Nationalism was Mr. Jinnah’s first love and continued to give him occasional pangs until late in life, as first love does…Mr Jinnah was a nationalist, but his nationalism died in its infancy…”

This was the last recorded entry in Khurshid’s diary before his shock demise. He aspired to write a biography on Jinnah’s last years and there’s nobody better than him who could have done so. But his first love Kashmir kept him busy until his last breathe.

His sudden demise at the age of 63 that too during twilight of revolution in Kashmir in late 1980s left a deep void. His leadership would have been of immense importance to the new generation of Kashmiris who had taken up the struggle in their own hands. But sometimes life is not what we want it to be.

KH Khurshid is rightly given the title of ‘Khurshid-e-Millat’ the light of the people. A light that extinguished too quickly but his legacy lives on.

(Editor’s Note: This article was first published here. For the purpose of clarity and fluency in reading, academic references have been removed.)

A beautiful view from Mt K2 on Abruzzi Ridge

A beautiful view from Mt K2 (8611 m) C3, on Abruzzi Ridge, Gilgit-Baltistan. From left to right Skyang Kangri, Broad Peak, Cholgolisa and Masherbrum.

Source: Everest Today

Footprints: Paradise in Neglect

The settlement of Rawalakot lies at an elevation of around 5,400 feet, a little lower than Murree. Drive about two hours or so from here and you suddenly reach an altitude of 8,500 to 9,000 feet: literally amidst the clouds. At this height, there is a marked drop in temperature. Travel­ling from Bagh, which is located in a valley, the temperature is around 34°C; at Haji Pir around 18°C.

Traveling through Kashmir Valley

NEHA SAIGAL

I am a wanderer and an explorer, I will travel to any corner of this planet if it intrigues me or catches my fancy. Somewhere in 2017, I decided that I must travel to Kashmir, maybe I was attracted to the place as it was a boiling cauldron of careless politics and tragic lives. It is strange to think about it now, as I sit and type away in my relatively comfortable and humble setting in Delhi. Not once before my travel did I really expect to be blown away by the sheer beauty, I guess I was more excited about the stories that awaited me.

Our landing in Srinagar was spectacular, we were greeted by the Himalayan range on either side. My mouth wide open, I stared in amazement as I had never been this close to the mighty Himalayas.I was just getting my head around the snow-covered ranges, my body and mind filled with excitement that I didn’t realize when I walked into the members of the Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF). These men clad in brown uniforms were everywhere and to describe the feeling accurately, it was a rather “quick low after a good high.” Many instances during my travel through the Valley this feeling kept resurfacing.

The air was cold, if I remember, it must have been one degree the day we landed. The chill was secondary, I was well equipped as traveling to Kashmir in the winter is no laughing matter for someone who has grown up in the warm climate of South India. Primarily I was interested in taking in whatever I could like a greedy child, but the ride from the airport to my hotel, felt a bit dystopian (I am saying it felt not that it is). But that changed very quickly as we reached the Boulevard road and we drove past Dal Lake, everything changed that minute. The houseboats on the lake made me feel at ease and I started noticing the men and women in their pherans (Kashmiri dress), noticing me.

That night I slept in a beautiful house in Wakil Colony which was under the care of the nicest and warmest family, who gave us cups of Kahwa at the very mention of “chai.” The temperatures must have dropped to minus four but I slept like a child wrapped in flannel blankets. The next morning was hard, it took me a good two hours to get myself out of bed as it was freezing. But the “kangri”, which is a Kashmiri essential, is defined by many as the firepot that helps keep Kashmir warm, was a life-saver and helped in getting by the morning.

A road trip in Kashmir requires a trustworthy car and a driver who is a good story teller, trust me the Valley is full of stories, but you will need a good imagination to fathom them all. Driving around Srinagar transported me almost immediately to a Tim Burton film, dark and gothic. The Chinar trees lining the roadside had lost all of their cover that brought out a different personality. The gardens be it Shalimar Bagh or the Chashme Shahi, were similar yet different. On that cold winter day, it was difficult to imagine the Mughals walking through these paths. Despite the eeriness around me, I felt comfortable, I felt at ease and not a for a moment, did I feel I do not belong. But why should I not belong? Why was the feeling of ease in the Valley a surprise? Is it part of the Indian psyche to look at Kashmir and its people with doubt? These questions trouble me now, but didn’t really matter as we drove higher into the mountains.

Amir Khusro’s also known as the “father of Qawwali” was responsible to bring the gazal style of music to India, which still exists here as well as Pakistan. Something amongst many others that the two countries share in common, but I digress why I remembered the Sufi poet was his famous poem on Kashmir,

“Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,

Hameenast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.”

which translates into:

“If there is a paradise on earth,

It is this, it is this, it is this.” 

It is almost as though I can hear Khusro insist that if there is paradise on Earth, it is in Kashmir. I heard him while I walked through the soft white snow in Gulmarg, with every sinking step, I could swear by the marvel around me. There was no getting away from the cold, as Mushtaq bhai told me in Srinagar “In Kashmir, just simply enjoy the cold.” His words had a whole new meaning 8000 ft in the mountains, hot cups of tea and bowls of maggi really added to the experience. In Gulmarg you can forget the Kashmir you read in the papers, amongst the frolicking travelers. I surely forgot, I was too busy imagining how Gulmarg in the next couple of months would turn into the valley of flowers. Once the sun becomes strong enough, how all the snow will melt away and give way to new life. But that’s how nature works and possibly every winter the scars of unrest are covered temporarily.

No trip to Kashmir is complete without the visit to Pahalgam, it was on the top of my list. I don’t say this because of all the famous Bollywood movies that were shot there. The locals will very proudly tell you about the various points in the beautiful valleys of Pahalgam, where Salman Khan displayed his acting skills for Bhajrangi Bhaijaan or the fact that the film “Betaab” was named after the Betaab Valley. Pahalgam is also famous as many enthusiastic Hindus begin the journey to the Amarnath temple, which is a 5 day trek from this town. The interesting fact, is that out of respect for the yatris, it is almost impossible to find the spread of meat dishes that you will find elsewhere in Kashmir. I found this action by locals endearing, an act of embracing the diversity.

There were many moments in Pahalgam when words fail and you can’t express what you see before your eyes. Sometimes these very words fail when you hear things spoken by the men and women in the Valley. We were at the end of our journey and traveling through the saffron fields of Pampore back to Srinagar. There was news about shooting of some jawans in Pulwama, which is not very far from where we were, almost immediately our kind Kashmiri driver Amir, responded “It is because of a handful of people that Kashmir’s name is ruined all over the country.” He further added “ Why would we not want to live in peace, after all we are Indians as well.” The car fell silent, not because we were surprised at what he said, but, the fact that he had to justify on behalf of all Kashmiris which side they were on.

As we drove past the naked Chinars, I felt sad and helpless, I really couldn’t say anything to comfort this man or his family or his community. It’s best if I said nothing as I am part of the problem. The problem that lives in Delhi and very rarely raises the voice about the reality of people in the Valley. The problem that uses twitter to voice an opinion but feels that there is nothing else one can do. As we approach Srinagar, we discuss politics as we pass by posh houses of Ministers. Amir points out to Omar Abdullah’s home (ex CM of J&K) and tells me about the tragedy of the current government and he hopes to have Abdullah back in power. I see his point and empathize with his/their reality but say nothing as we drive towards the Dal Lake, where I spend the last few hours of my travel, taking in every bit of beauty which is now mired in reality.

Source: Kashmir Observer 

Mountains, Urbanites and Tea that smelled of Horses

 

It was a long drive up the mountain, and all I remember is the odd happiness I felt in not feeling nauseous. Those of you who have never suffered from Altitude Sickness, more commonly known as mountain sickness, cannot understand the happiness an inherent patient of altitude sickness feels upon not being sick on mountains. […]

via Mountains, Urbanites and Tea that smelled of Horses — Obsessed With Words

The Ageless Kashmir

Spinnin'Wheels

The place that everyone wants to visit at least once in their life time, recalled as “The Heaven on Earth” or The Paradise on Earth, Kashmir is truly blessed with an eternal natural beauty .

From those charming Houseboats and Shikaras to those thrilling skiing and sledge rides, from the magnificent Gulmarg to the Holy Vaishnodevi temple, the Jewelled crown of India offers everyone a dear memory of Kashmir to behold. A lot has been written about this region, movies and documentaries have been made, Kashmir has been a prominent part of Bollywood for ages. It is truly about embracing the nature.

Let the exploration begin…an inimitable gateway is guaranteed!

First stop -Srinagar

I arrived at the Srinagar International Airport, booked a cab and headed to the beautiful extended House boat. Living on the water in ceda-paneled bedrooms with all the facilities and the charming interior , the Houseboat appears…

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Exploitation of tourist spots in Azad Kashmir

With the tourist season just around the corner, some of the most frequented and scenic spots in Azad Kashmir are attracting a different kind of attention. Seasonal vendors and operators of roadside establishments have been swarming along roads that lead to picnic spots on the Jhelum and Neelum rivers.

The ride up from Muzaffarabad to Chakothi, Kohala and upper Neelum valley is one of adventure with scenic views of the valleys and high mountains around with raging rivers below. But visitors have been complaining of traffic jams because of narrow passageways.

Makeshift structures and stalls by roadside vendors crop up at every three kilometres along the roads connecting the Jhelum and Neelum valleys. Such encroachments not only violate all road safety rules and building by-laws but also cause traffic congestion when visitors stop at these establishments.

Instead of pristine hillsides, the roads leading to the Jhelum and Neelum rivers are now lined with eyesores of shops and other structures which encroach on road space. The Muzaffarabad Municipal Corporation (MMC) and the Muzaffarabad Development Authority (MDA), however, has failed to take action against these encroachers.

“Half of the Jhelum Valley area falls in the constituency of AJK Prime Minister Raja Farooq Haider who often visits the area. But he has never directed the relevant civic bodies to take action against encroachers,” noted a Muzaffarabad resident.

The story is similar along the 32 km-long Kohala road where unregulated construction has been cropping up almost at will. “The encroachers and the people constructing structures along the Jhelum valley and Kohala roads have political backing and support from some powerful tribes who do not care about the law,” claimed an official of the MMC while requesting that his name should not be mentioned. “If we go to take action [against encroachment] we receive instructions from some influential political figures of the region to not to touch the structures. And If we do, then within hours we would be suspended,” the official further stated.

Moreover, the MMC official further claimed that officials of the civic bodies cannot even issue warning letters to any of the encroachers in Muzaffarabad without express permission from the senior government or party officials. “In AJK institutions are employment factories for the ruling elite and some influential tribes.  Whatever they want to do, either legal or illegal, they do it for their personal benefit,” the official of the civic body said.

“Law is for poor in AJK who have no say. If sometimes they need to implement the law they implement it on the voiceless.” Repeated attempts to contact the government of AJK Tourism Minister Mushtaq Minhas were in vain as his phone was non-responsive. Other top government officials also refused to speak on the matter.

The article was first published here in The Express Tribune.

Going Home

DIY in a Dorm

Hey, you guys! Thanks for stopping by today.

After my flight to Gilgit got cancelled for the 5th time in a row due to bad weather, my friends and I decided to go home by road last summer. Here are some pictures I took that day.

Have fun browsing!

Pin it for later! ❤

Have a great week!

Sahar

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